Dente delicato infirmus resistentia

WARNING: Sufferers of dente delicato infirmus resistentia, (DDIR) otherwise known as 'a sweet tooth lacking willpower' should avoid prolonged exposure to Uzès. The following items, listed alphabetically, are just some of the culprits found here, able to cause extreme euphoria in said sufferers: biscuits, calissons, candied fruit, caramels, chocolates, cookies, creme brulee, creme glacee, crepes, gummy bears, jelly candy, licorice, lollipops, marshmallows, meringues, macarons, mousse au chocolat, nougat, pain au chocolat, sacristains, tarte tatin, and so on.

We have discovered these dastardly treats lurking in the following places:

La Cure Gourmande, 3 Place aux Herbes, is a biscuiterie confiserie chocolaterie that blatently targets and attracts sufferers of DDIR by returning them "beyond the quality taste to the emotional attachment of the traditional old fashioned product. Created in 1989 'La Cure Gourmande' now has various products in its name, hand made biscuits, Berlandises (fruit jam filled sweets), choupettes (old fashioned South of France lollipop), chocolates, toffees, calissons." Products are presented and sold in quaint little metal boxes and tins harking back to bygone times to further entice its customers. From their website: www.la-cure-gourmande.com

La Patisserie Deschamps Philippe, 6 Boulevard Alliés. This small, seemingly inconspicuous patisserie lures DDIR sufferers in with their mouth-watering display of colourful gateaux in the window and giant slabs of chocolate. Once inside, the DDIR sufferer is overwhelmed and confused by the assault on his/her senses. Unable to think clearly, s/he will torment him/herself with the possibilities. Will it be crème brûlée (they sweeten the deal further by letting you keep the ceramic dish it was baked in), a raspberry macaron (it melts in your mouth), or a dozen handmade chocolates? It is strongly advised that all DDIR sufferers enter this store with a DDIR immune friend who will be able to pry you away, if your inability to think clearly causes you to ask for one of everything in the store.

Haribo Museum, Pont des Charettes, Uzès. The mecca of candy. It is here where they implant DDIR into new generations of sufferers and fortify it in seasoned ones. This is confirmed by a visit to the museum/factory, where long queues of mostly young children wait eagerly to get inside. Once through the doors, they are given bags of FREE candy, along with tokens to be used in the candy vending machines, for more FREE candy. A tour through the museum then explains how Haribo came to be Europe's largest candy manufacturer and shows how their sweets are made. There are interactive games, large colourful gummy bears, endless displays of jellies, licorice, marshmallows, and even clothing made of candy. Then, to make sure DDIR has firmly been established, visitors end up in a giant boutique filled with all Haribo has to offer...in bulk sizes! If by this point, children have not sworn their undying loyalty and love for Haribo candy, one last pitch is made...they are given 50 % off tickets for the amusement games outside. Hopped up on sugar, new DDIR converts can take a spin around the go-cart track, jump on the trampolines, or practice flips on the bungee/trampoline. With this, Haribo is assured they will leave screaming, "Haribo...je t'aime!" Back at home, where they come down from their sugar high, they can open the FREE packs of candy bulging in their pockets, log on to Haribo.com and continue to feed their addiction.

Having grown up with a mother who has struggled with DDIR for years and whose favourite line is "the diet starts tomorrow" I know first hand the effects of this troublesome addiction. While in Uzès, said mother had to be monitored carefully, with gentle reminders from Yanni, "Grandma, what did we say?" or "Grandma, you already had dessert today."

So, you have been warned. DDIR sufferers: travel to Uzès at your own risk. Now, I need to go pick up three more crème brûlée. What? My mother needs a few more dishes to complete her set!

Viva Valencia!

Valencia is probably most well known for its oranges, and during the three hour drive there from Barcelona we certainly did see a lot of them. But did you also know that Valencia is also home to the largest aquarium in Europe?

The Romans founded Valencia in 138 BC along the banks of the Turia River that flowed (and often flooded) through the city until 1957 when flooding had such a huge economic consequence that they decided to reroute the river. They carved out a new riverbed for the Turia on the outskirts of town, and used its waters to irrigate the fertile plains for agriculture.

Now, all along the banks of the former riverbed you find many of Valencia's museums. Some of them had been former convents that had been damaged in the floods and were later refurbished into museums. They include the La Beneficencia Arts Centre, the Sala Parpallo and the Valencian Institute of Modern Art, none of which we had time to visit, unfortunately.

Also on the banks of the old riverbed is the Saint Pius V Fine Arts Museum, whose sparkling blue dome can't be missed, and next to it, the Real Gardens, which are the oldest, largest, most popular gardens in Valencia. In the late 14th century, King John I created a zoo here with lions, bears, and other exotic animals. Now it is most often used in summer for open air concerts and plays.

In the 80's though was when the largest transformation took place. The former riverbed was landscaped and developed into a swath of greenspace, kilometres long, with bike trails, walking trails, parks, and gardens that runs through the entire city. This is where you also find the Palacio de la Musica auditorium, Gulliver Park, the Urban Wood, and the Monforte Gardens. We would have needed weeks to explore and truly enjoy all it has to offer!

We did manage to spend an entire day however in what I believe is the crowning glory of the transformed riverbed, 'The City of Arts and Sciences'. When you first arrive at this stunning complex, you feel like you've entered another world, somewhere in the distant future. The sleek, futuristic buildings were designed by the architect, Santiago Calatrava and include the Prince Philip Museum of the Sciences, whose exhibits reminded me of the Science Centre back home, the Reina Sofia Art Museum, which looks like a giant helmet, the Hemispheric, designed to look like a giant eyeball (it houses a planetarium, an IMAX theatre and a Laserium), and the Oceanografic, the largest aquarium in Europe. We spent most of our time here, marvelling at all of the fabulous marine life, walking through tunnels with sharks and stingrays gliding all around and schools of fish passing by from all sides. You feel like you're walking through the middle of the ocean. It was phenomenal!

We also spent a day wandering through the oldest part of the city and the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, and I could go on and on about the architecture there, the Cathedral, the Basilica of our Lady of the Forsaken, or about Valencia's most popular stretch of beaches, the Playa Malva Rossa, but I won't. You'll just have to visit this beautiful Mediterranean city and see for yourself! Viva Valencia!

2 months here, 1 more to go.

I've been here about 2 months now, and I have to say, I am in love with Uzès. When I first arrived, I didn't know what to think of it. Now, I feel like I've lived here for years. I would definitely love to come back some day. I've made so many amazing friends that I will never forget! This experience overall is an unforgettable one.

School is somewhat challenging, with the subjects being a little more advanced than the ones in Canada. My favourite subjects have to be Spanish and History/Geography, but I love Euro English and French class too. French has been very interesting this term. We have been studying Molière's play, L'Avare (The Miser). I am enjoying this class more than I enjoy it in Canada!

Our trip to Spain was short but sweet. Barcelona and Valencia are beautiful cities, and I would like to go back there too, someday.

Overall, my experience has exceeded my expectations! We have 4 more weeks in Uzès, and I'm going to try to enjoy it to the fullest.

Tomée

A letter to Barcelona

"Barcelona - it was the first time that we met
Barcelona - how can I forget
The moment that you stepped into the room you took my breath away
Barcelona - la musica vibros
Barcelona - y ella nos unio
And if God willing we will meet again someday" Freddie Mercury & Mike Moran

Dear Barcelona,

Why did I ever think that spending one entire day with you would be enough? From the moment we entered your labyrinth of one way streets, I knew we were doomed. For two hours we searched for our hotel, round and round your phallic Tour Abracsas.

You would not reveal your glorious complex self to us in such a short time! You would only tease us with a glimpse of what we could have known, what we should have experienced together.

We tried to pay homage to your native son, Antonio Gaudi. We really did! Please let me explain...the only reason we didn't get off the bus to see Casa Batllo and Casa Mila was so that we could spend our precious minutes touring his still unfinished masterpiece, La Sagrada Familia and stroll through his most amazing Park Guell. But our plans were foiled! The two hour lineup that wrapped around Gaudi's love left us standing in the cold, admiring its brilliant intricacies from the outside. Not to worry, we thought, we still had Park Guell to enjoy. But that too, was not to be. We missed the stop for Park Guell and could not return. Instead we strolled along Avenida Tibidabo, the street of the fictional Aldaya mansion in Shadow of the Wind and then through the gardens of the Royal Palace. We walked along Las Ramblas and explored your historic centre, the Barrio Gotico. We laughed at the snow white geese bathing in the lush inner courtyard of the 13th century Cathedral and reveled in your beauty with a 360 degree view from its roof.

But it was not enough. Not enough time for museums or Montjuic, el Pueblo Espanol or the waterfront. They will have to be for another time.

Oh Barcelona, forgive me for thinking it could be done...for thinking I could penetrate into your modernista soul in such a short time!

Until we meet again...

Pique-nique, musique, vin et amis

"It'll be fun," I said, "a picnic at a winery with live music, and you'll get to meet my new friends." That's what I told my mom and sister we would be doing on their first Sunday in Uzès. I had no idea what kind of music it would be, where the winery was, what we would be eating or how many people would be there. In fact, I had no idea what to expect. We had arranged to meet Patrice, Rachel, and Garance in town and follow them to the winery in a tiny village called Donnat, about a half hour away. Sunday afternoon came...along with the cold pouring rain. As we huddled in the car waiting for our friends to arrive we couldn't help but wonder what we were getting ourselves into.

When they showed up, Patrice jumped out of the car and handed us a CD to listen to on the way. The musicians at the winery (friends of theirs) would be playing these songs as a tribute to the famous French singer, Nougaro. I had never heard of him before but after listening to the first few songs I wished I had. (stay tuned for more about him)

Because of the rain, the winemakers had move the picnic into their garage/wine storage room. Five or six rows of tables had been lined up and the four musicians had set up their instruments in front of the giant wine vats. There were probably about 60-70 of us crammed into the space, backs touching backs, elbows bumping elbows. Wine glasses were filled, everyone pulled out the food they had brought and shared around the table. A sheet of Nougaro lyrics were passed out and the music started.

It was magnifique! The musicians were extremely talented. They each played 2 or 3 different intruments and all four sang. In fact, I almost liked their versions of the songs better than the originals we had listened to in the car. Once the wine started flowing and the body heat warmed us up, everybody in the room began to sing along, except us of course. We were the Nougaro newbies so we just followed the lyrics, mouthed the words, and enjoyed the atmosphere. And though a light rain continued outside for most of the afternoon, I couldn't keep the smile off my face. We were cozy and warm, enjoying a French afternoon.

"La pluie fait des claquettes

sur le trottoir à minuit

Parfois je m'y arrête

Je l'admire, j'applaudi

Je suis son chapeau claque

Son queue de pie vertical

Son sourire de nacre

Sa pointure de cristal

La pluie..." Nougaro

Claude Nougaro-"L'éternal troubadour"

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With Nougaro songs bopping in my brain after the picnic, I knew I had to find out more about this quintessential French singer. If you think of French music, what comes to mind? Probably the sound of Nougaro, even if you didn't know his name. He is to the French what I would consider Kazantzidis is to Greeks. His lyrics are poetry, and his voice is unique with its pronounced Toulousian accent. He was born in Toulouse in 1929 to an opera singer father and a piano teacher mother and although he never learned how to read music or play an instrument, he was an avid listener of not only classical, but homegrown pop and American swing. He even wrote a song called 'Armstrong', a tribute to Louis Armstrong, and did his own version of 'Nobody Knows' (Nobody knows the trouble I've seen...). He was infatuated with American jazz music and collaborated with many jazz greats in the late 50's and early 60's. The political events of May 1968 inspired him to write the song 'Paris Mai', a plea for life, which was banned from the airwaves. Throughout the 70's his popularity declined. In the 80's, after his French record company wouldn't renew his contract, he went to New York City for inspiration. There he released a comeback album called Nougayork, which skyrocketed him back into the spotlight and won him a best album and best artist award.

Claude Nougaro died on March 4, 2004 at the age of 74, and the whole country wept.

A visit to his official website, www.nougaro.com, though confirms that the music and poetry of Nougaro lives on and our afternoon at the winery proved that he is still very much loved and listened to by many.

"L'éternal troubadour laisse une ville orpheline et un pays sous le choc. Homme plein de verve, d'humour et de coeur, impregné de jazz, de rock et de world music, sa poésie et son art sont une éternelle explosion des mots et d'amour."

"The eternal troubadour leaves a city orphaned and a country in shock. A man full of wit, humour and heart, imbued with jazz, java, rock and world music, his poetry and his art are an eternal explosion of words and love."(from www.nougaro.com)

Internet...to have or not to have?

Once upon a time people traveled without internet; without the virtual umbilical cord through which information could be sent and received from home on a daily (hourly) basis. They traveled for months without any contact with their loved ones back home, other than the occasional handwritten letter sent through the post, whose information was months old by the time it reached its intended audience.

Last week, we were without internet for seven whole days. The first three (in a Valencia apartment) we were prepared for and accepted. Its only three days, we figured, we'll survive. During the 8 hour drive back to Uzès, many of the conversations revolved around what everyone was going to do when they got back...check Facebook, Skype Dad/Papa/friends, check the zoo (Yanni's virtual zoo game) and make sure the animals were all alive, do some blog entries, check emails, etc, etc) To our horror, when we arrived and raced up the stairs to plug in the computer, we discovered that the internet was down and unlike the last time it happened, it could not be reset. There were no blinking lights. There was no power whatsoever. There had been a power outage and possible surge during the storm that was raging outside and the internet box was possibly fried. That potentially meant 6 weeks of waiting for a new box, without internet. We contemplated paying the hotel across the street for use of their wireless password...up to 100 Euro if necessary. Thankfully we didn't need to resort to that. It ended up that only the plug was fried by the surge, not the box and we were back up and running four days later.

I often wondered during this past week without internet, does being so connected enhance or detract from the traveler's experience? I remember spending summers in Greece with absolutely no contact with my friends back home. Sure I missed them, but after the first week or so I kind of forgot about them and immersed myself in my new surroundings. It was so simple. Now, with internet (and especially Facebook), there is a feeling of constant pressure to stay connected, to stay in the loop...and not just for my 13 year old, who, like all 13 year olds is obsessed with her friends' social life. I feel it too.

Don't get me wrong...it's not all bad. Having internet does allow us to phone family and friends through gmail and see their faces through Skype (for free) and that's way better than a stale letter! Plus it acts as our dictionary, encyclopedia, medical guide, translator, mapfinder, entertainment source (we have watched countless episodes of The Nanny, Corner Gas, Brady Bunch, AFV, etc during our long evenings at home), and research tool, so I won't even try to suggest that we go back to life without it. I just wonder and worry...would we have immersed ourselves even more in the local culture if this was a pre-internet time or would we have just been more lonely and miserable?

Now, I have so much to fill you in on while we were away....